italian restraint

Over the last 10 months here in Florence, I've been amassing a collection of shots featuring things that appeal to me visually.  Everything from doors to courtyards to decorative hardware and of course, flooring.  Floor tiles of all kinds are used throughout Italy in an amazing array of pattern and colour.  In Tuscany, simple terra cotta tiles are most common but here and there you also see more decorative applications.  Everything from marble mosaic to glazed ceramic and stamped terra cotta.  What is almost always surprising and delightful is that you find most of these special floors hidden in the most simple of environments.  The entry of an appartment block, an otherwise plainly decorated bakery or a sparse former convent.  Here are a few of my local favourites!

Beautiful pattern and colour combination on this forno (bakery) floor -- this would look great in a kitchen!

Marble laid in geometric patterns are the most common...this one is simple since the door, clearly is not.

But sometimes the patterns can surprise you!

I've said it before - Italians love Bling.  You see bejeweled tee-shirts, studded everything and designer labels everywhere you look.  But somehow, this love of things flashy is usually limited to items worn on the body.  When it comes to interiors, Italians seem to have in innate sense of restraint and balance.  The fancy floors you see pictured here are the focal points of the spaces in which they are set.  Walls and other finishes are kept neutral and toned down.  

Oversized tiles make this traditional pattern surprising and playful.

A lovely organic pattern in an elegant colour.  Great for an entryway!

Detail of the black and white floor above - the raised texture makes it even more interesting

While I'm on the theme of restrained Italian decor, I thought I'd include a couple of additional shots.  These simple vingnettes are so appealing in a decorative yet utilitarian way.  There is nothing over-though or over-styled going on here, which is why they both work so well.  These are also great inspiration shots for anyone wanting to loosen up an "over designed" space.  Try putting useful things out in the open where they're most, well, useful...and don't over-plan your art walls.  Just let them evolve naturally.  The results might surprise you!  

Rustic, utilitarian and perfect.  Obviously the stove is to the left....;-)

A collection of decorative plates hung in a perfectly imperfect display.

ahh, Chianti....

Well, spring has finally arrived in Tuscany along with Granny and Grandpa's long awaited visit to "our casa".  My parents joined us for 10 days in May...but as they'd visited Florence before, we thought it would be fun to take them on a little adventure!  Since we're a family of wine lovers, Chianti was the obvious choice.  With easy access from Florence and plenty of little towns to poke around in, we loaded up our rental and Sandro braved the winding Italian country roads...

Badia a Passignano - the 11th Century Abbey close to our villa.

Poggio al Vento - the 11th Century castle housing our villa.

The Castle of Poggio al Vento sits just above the Abbey of Badia a Passingano and was once a powerful regional settlement.  Our apartment was set in the former lord's accommodations just off the main courtyard.  The space is newly renovated and decorated in a charming Italian Country style.  Lots of white and wood - my all time favourite scheme (check out my pinterest page for evidence).

Whitewashed bedroom with heirloom furniture and beautiful natural light.

A white backdrop is always clean and restful.

I have a new found love for terra cotta floor tiles.  These are very common in Tuscany and have a beautiful warm variation in colour along with a lovely rustic texture.  The ones in this apartment are set with contrasting grout to highlight the pattern and offset the colours.

An actual Tuscan kitchen....the table is part of the work space.

....the view from our bedroom window.

 

 The castle compound houses it's own chapel which our hostess offered to show us upon arrival.  It's a lovely and peaceful space with a beautiful and vibrantly coloured fresco placed above the alter.  Originally much larger, the church of Sant'Andrea was reduced significantly in the 19th Century.  The original limestone construction is still evident though and the interior walls are washed with a soft green and ivory which offsets the colours in the main fresco.

Castle chapel at Poggio al Vento.

Beautiful fresco with strikingly vivid colours attributed to
Filippo d'Antonio Filippelli.

Secondary fresco in need of a little restoration...

A short distance from our home base was the town of Greve in Chianti.  We stopped in for a beautiful lunch at Mangiamo! Mangiamo!, a little shopping, some wine and olive oil tasting...and of course, a gelato! 

Greve in Chianti, main piazza.  So quiet and tidy in comparison to Florence.

Wine tasting cantina in Greve - check out the concrete floors with hardwood & tile inlay.

Marble sinks for unwanted wine....of course.

Gelato with Granny & Grandpa.  Che contentezza!

In search of a local wine producer, we were directed down the road to Poggio al Sole.  They offer local wine and olive oil, along with tastings and Agrotourismo accommodation.  The wines are lovely and the the oil has that distinctly Tuscan peppery finish...all in an incredibly beautiful setting!  Not much more to say....the pictures speak for themselves.

Olive tree-lined access road to Poggio al Sole

Poggio al Sole

Wine production at Poggio al Sole

Hands down, it was a wonderful week full of good food, wonderful views and good times with Granny & Grandpa!

The breathtaking views just go on and on...

Family picture with vineyards in the background.  Not sure what the bambina is gazing at but it's clearly making her happy!

an easter in italy

While winter in Italy has its perks i.e., fewer tourists; beautiful Christmas lights; sale season (love it!), this particular winter with it's never ending rain and flu has left a little to be desired.  That said, spring is (almost) here and that is reason to celebrate.  So this Easter Sunday with Sandro home in bed (flu virus #5) and despite the drizzle, Elly and I headed out to catch the Scoppio del Carro....or the Exploding of the Cart.

Nope, the Duomo is not on fire....just smoke from the fireworks!

 Not willing to brave the Piazza del Duomo in the rain for three hours, we arrived late and witnessed very little of this ancient ritual....but I'm told that a dove-shaped rocket flies out of the Cathedral and ignites the fireworks packed into the "cart" (to read more, check out this link).  Of course, there is a complicated history attached to all of this but the Scoppio del Carro has been practised in Florence each Easter Sunday since the end of the 15th Century.  Pretty cool.

Crowded Piazza del Duomo on Easter Sunday

The ancient cart used for this centuries-old ritual

Well, in Italy if nothing else one can always enjoy a great meal....so off to a lovely Easter Brunch with some good friends.  After successfully fighting the crowds out of the Piazza del Duomo, Elly and I had time for a breather...and a little ballet (more like interpretive dance) in Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

Ballet anyone?

 The modern benches directly behind my favourite dancer are constructed of steel, wood and fibreglass.  They offer a perfect spot to rest and take in the beautiful marble-clad facade of the Santa Maria Novella Cathedral.  Also a great example of how the ancient and modern come together so seamlessly in Italy.

Modern seating contrasts with the facade of Santa Maria Novella...plus a dancer ;-)

Our chosen brunch spot for this sort of occasion is a lovely little boutique hotel called JK Place, located right in Piazza Santa Maria Novella.  The food is terrific and there's lots of it, a huge criteria when it comes to Sunday Brunch as far as I'm concerned...well, that and a Bloody Mary.  Anyway, the food aside, this is one of my favourite hotels in Florence.  The decor feels collected and comfortable in a way that has me planning my new (imaginary) house in Canada.

The library also serves at the front desk at JK Place. Great idea for an entryway if you have the space, or even an office.  Why not put your desk in the middle of the room?

The hotel entry.  I love the bright classic chairs, and the art leaning against the wall provides such a relaxed vibe. 

Of course my Canadian house is less than likely to have antique painted, coffered ceilings....or even exposed timber beams.  That said, combining styles and design elements is achievable even without hundreds-years-old structures.  Check out the classic fireplace mantle and wing-back chair below.  They've been paired with modern & contemporary elements like the ottoman, side chair & floor lamp.  The result is a room that feels collected over time - like someone actually lives here.  Shouldn't all our homes feel that way?

Hotel Lobby - kind of wish this was my living room right now.

A corner of the lobby featuring a beautiful collection of contrasting pieces.  The black and gold colour scheme pulls it all together.

JK Place was designed by Italian architect and interior designer Michele Bonan.  He does some stunning work, including many of the Faragamo-owned hotels (yes, this is one of them).  Despite it's pedigree, this hotel is a great example of old-new, high-low mixing.  The formal breakfast room is an inspirational example of how anyone can breath new life into a matchy and outdated dining set.  These are antiques of course, but think about painting out your chairs and leaving the table as is.  Try two matching pendants instead of one big chandelier...and built-ins are a great way to create a bespoke look.  It's all do-able, just be brave - you can always repaint!

The breakfast room is lit from above by a huge glass conservatory ceiling

Beautiful built-in buffet....topped with marble, of course.

The dining room at JK Place is more of a lounge setting with big comfy wing-back chairs and round bistro tables...all black and white set against a stylish blue-green backdrop.  Artwork and mirrors are hung gallery style at every height.  It's all very laid back but with a kind of men's club feeling done in a feminine palette.  You might think eating would be difficult with this sort of seating variation, but everyone seems to do just fine and it serves to create a casualness to the whole affair.  I've worked with many clients over the years who feel compelled to over-do the "eating seating" in their spaces: kitchen bar seating, adjacent breakfast table & chairs and close by of course, a formal dining room.  I encourage everyone to take a good look at the picture below and consider this for an informal, comfortable breakfast nook.  Much better for coffee and checking email - it might even become your favourite spot in the house!

The dining room/lounge - I've been trying to convince clients to opt for lounge chairs in a dining space for years!

A lovely vignette featuring a nice contrast of modern and traditional lighting.

I hope this little hotel offers you as much inspiration as it does for me.  Easter Brunch was our second trip to JK Place, and I'm sure we'll be back before our year is out.  Great design, great food...and no one seems to mind a dancing 2-1/2 year old in the room.  What more could we ask for?  Next time though, I want to sit in the SUN on the beautiful patio that just went up in Piazza Santa Maria Novella!

Good design extends right out to the patio with a view of the cathedral.  Great place for brunch or aperitivi (cocktails) if the rain ever stops!

fighting the flu and the winter blahs in florence

Yes, winter can really get you down and being in one of the most beautiful cities in world doesn't change that reality.  This winter in Florence has people all over the city suffering with various incarnations of the flu.  In our little apartment we're just completing our third round.  I don't dare to hope that it's the last.  According to most Italians it just hasn't been cold enough this year....a breeding ground for bacteria.  Well whatever the reason, we're all more than ready for spring.

Despite being surrounded with beautiful architecture, fascinating history and wonderful art, I've been feeling uninspired as far as blog content this last month.  So to bridge this little gap, I thought I'd take a look at one of my favourite things in Florence: the Ponte Vecchio.  I know, not really off the beaten path but it is lovely and so definitively Florentine.  Most of these shots were collected in warmer months so this post also serves as a little reminder of what we have to look forward to.  Here's hoping it's soon!

Ponte Vecchio on a sunny summer day

The Ponte Vecchio is one of Florence's most popular tourist destinations, but on any given Sunday afternoon you'll also find it jammed with locals.  It's the only surviving merchant bridge in the city and is lined on either side with jewelry shops.  In fact, this is the only bridge in Florence not destroyed by the retreating German army during WWII.

History Lesson:  originally this bridge was home to medieval Florence's butcher trade, the byproducts of which were tossed into the Arno below.  When the Medici rulers moved to Palazzo Pitti on the south side of the river, the smell from the butcher's trade offended them during their daily crossing.  The butchers were evicted in favour of jewellers who remain in place to this day.   

Looking down at Ponte Vecchio from Piazzale Michelangelo

Jewelry on Ponte Vecchio

The Ponte Vecchio, nothing but jewelry shops on either side, all the way across...

The other side of Ponte Vecchio

While the views from the Ponte Vecchio are lovely, when I'm crossing the Arno each day from another bridge, I love to glance over at the Ponte Vecchio's exterior.  The shops that line either side seem to be cobbled together from this perspective.  It's all a little higgeldy piggeldy (technical term) as far as width, depth, height, colour and even window style.  Luckily, the three central arches create a focal point and a rest for the eyes.  The corridor running above the shops also helps to tie everything together visually....though not the intention when it was constructed.  

History Lesson #2:  The Vasari Corridor runs from Palazzo Pitti, across Ponte Vecchio and ends at the Uffizzi Gallery (originally Florence's offices of state).  Not content with cleaning up the butcher's trade along the bridge, the Medici's didn't want to mingle with the common rabble when heading to work each morning.  The corridor was constructed above street level to connect the palace with the offices.  Where necessary, existing tower homes were (forcibly) given up to the project.  Only one owner was powerful enough to resist and you can see where the corridor turns to avoid it on the south side of the bridge.

The Vasari Corridor where it jogs around the Mannelli tower, supported with exterior buttresses

Vasari Corridor heading toward Palazzo Pitti.  Notice how it cuts right through this tower.

Vasari Corridor running from the Ponte Vecchio to the Uffizi.  This portion is supported by a series of arches, creating a loggia.  The left turn at the end is where it connects to the Uffizi.

Looking west on Ponte Vecchio.  Bellissimo!

Well there you have it, a lovely little piece of Florence.  Sometimes I go out of my way to walk across the Ponte Vecchio.  It really never fails to make me smile, and sometimes you find a surprise in store....like the shot below.  We came across these butterflies adorning the bridge in early November, en route to the Uffizi.  Elly, of course, was delighted and insisted we go home the same way for a second look.

Paper butterflies with wings the shape of Tuscany strung across Ponte Vecchio...part of an art installation.