Yes, winter can really get you down and being in one of the most beautiful cities in world doesn't change that reality. This winter in Florence has people all over the city suffering with various incarnations of the flu. In our little apartment we're just completing our third round. I don't dare to hope that it's the last. According to most Italians it just hasn't been cold enough this year....a breeding ground for bacteria. Well whatever the reason, we're all more than ready for spring.
Despite being surrounded with beautiful architecture, fascinating history and wonderful art, I've been feeling uninspired as far as blog content this last month. So to bridge this little gap, I thought I'd take a look at one of my favourite things in Florence: the Ponte Vecchio. I know, not really off the beaten path but it is lovely and so definitively Florentine. Most of these shots were collected in warmer months so this post also serves as a little reminder of what we have to look forward to. Here's hoping it's soon!
 |
| Ponte Vecchio on a sunny summer day |
The Ponte Vecchio is one of Florence's most popular tourist destinations, but on any given Sunday afternoon you'll also find it jammed with locals. It's the only surviving merchant bridge in the city and is lined on either side with jewelry shops. In fact, this is the only bridge in Florence not destroyed by the retreating German army during WWII.
History Lesson: originally this bridge was home to medieval Florence's butcher trade, the byproducts of which were tossed into the Arno below. When the Medici rulers moved to Palazzo Pitti on the south side of the river, the smell from the butcher's trade offended them during their daily crossing. The butchers were evicted in favour of jewellers who remain in place to this day.
 |
| Looking down at Ponte Vecchio from Piazzale Michelangelo |
 |
| Jewelry on Ponte Vecchio |
 |
| The Ponte Vecchio, nothing but jewelry shops on either side, all the way across... |
 |
| The other side of Ponte Vecchio |
While the views from the Ponte Vecchio are lovely, when I'm crossing the Arno each day from another bridge, I love to glance over at the Ponte Vecchio's exterior. The shops that line either side seem to be cobbled together from this perspective. It's all a little higgeldy piggeldy (technical term) as far as width, depth, height, colour and even window style. Luckily, the three central arches create a focal point and a rest for the eyes. The corridor running above the shops also helps to tie everything together visually....though not the intention when it was constructed.
History Lesson #2: The Vasari Corridor runs from Palazzo Pitti, across Ponte Vecchio and ends at the Uffizzi Gallery (originally Florence's offices of state). Not content with cleaning up the butcher's trade along the bridge, the Medici's didn't want to mingle with the common rabble when heading to work each morning. The corridor was constructed above street level to connect the palace with the offices. Where necessary, existing tower homes were (forcibly) given up to the project. Only one owner was powerful enough to resist and you can see where the corridor turns to avoid it on the south side of the bridge.
 |
| The Vasari Corridor where it jogs around the Mannelli tower, supported with exterior buttresses |
 |
| Vasari Corridor heading toward Palazzo Pitti. Notice how it cuts right through this tower. |
 |
| Vasari Corridor running from the Ponte Vecchio to the Uffizi. This portion is supported by a series of arches, creating a loggia. The left turn at the end is where it connects to the Uffizi. |
 |
| Looking west on Ponte Vecchio. Bellissimo! |
Well there you have it, a lovely little piece of Florence. Sometimes I go out of my way to walk across the Ponte Vecchio. It really never fails to make me smile, and sometimes you find a surprise in store....like the shot below. We came across these butterflies adorning the bridge in early November, en route to the Uffizi. Elly, of course, was delighted and insisted we go home the same way for a second look.
 |
| Paper butterflies with wings the shape of Tuscany strung across Ponte Vecchio...part of an art installation. |
No comments:
Post a Comment